
We were invited to stay a week with Mummi, Sumi and Mayna Deka, an Indian family living in North Guwahati in the state of Assam where we were treated to the greatest delicacy India has to offer; home cooking.

The kitchen is a micro melting pot of bizarre and wonderful ideas, most, having had their ten seconds of theoretical fame, inevitably slip into the past. Once every so often, though, an idea comes along that is so far out, so ludicrous, so arrogant that it would be a carnal culinary sin not to attempt it. That is why we turn ducks into hot dogs at Culina.

I rarely question the origin of a bag of green onions. The kitchen isn’t unlike a video store that gets new releases, or an auto-body shop that gets front fenders. Scallions simply arrive on my cutting board and I cut them—thinly, on a bias—into garnish…easy. I don’t question where they’re from or [...]